The Yves Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2013 Ready-to-Wear (RTW) collection, unveiled during Paris Fashion Week, marked a seismic shift in the house's aesthetic. Under the newly appointed creative director Hedi Slimane, the collection wasn't merely a presentation of clothing; it was a bold statement, a deliberate reimagining of the Yves Saint Laurent legacy, and a launchpad for a new era of rock-infused, androgynous chic. This collection, far from being a gentle evolution, was a revolution, triggering both fervent praise and considerable controversy. Let's delve into the intricacies of this pivotal moment in fashion history, examining its runway looks, the beauty aesthetic, the models chosen, and the critical reception it garnered.
Saint Laurent Spring 2013: A Departure from Tradition
The pre-Slimane era of Yves Saint Laurent was characterized by a certain opulence and sophistication, often referencing classic tailoring and feminine silhouettes. Slimane, known for his lean, minimalist aesthetic and his fascination with rock and roll culture, completely overturned this established identity. His debut collection for the house was a radical departure, discarding the luxurious, flowing gowns and power suits that had defined the brand for decades. Instead, he presented a collection steeped in a distinctly youthful, rebellious spirit. The silhouettes were lean, the fabrics were predominantly black, and the overall mood was undeniably cool and edgy. This was not your grandmother's Yves Saint Laurent.
RTW Spring 2013: The Key Elements
The Spring/Summer 2013 RTW collection was built on several key pillars that defined Slimane's vision for the brand:
* The Skinny Silhouette: The defining characteristic of the collection was its relentlessly skinny silhouette. From the impossibly tight trousers to the fitted jackets and slim-fitting dresses, every garment emphasized a lean, almost boyish physique. This was a stark contrast to the more curvaceous forms typically associated with haute couture and ready-to-wear.
* The Rock 'n' Roll Influence: Slimane's love for rock music was evident throughout the collection. Leather jackets, studded details, and a general air of rebellion infused the garments, creating a distinctly rock-and-roll aesthetic. The collection evoked the spirit of iconic rock musicians, particularly those from the 1960s and 70s, translating their rebellious attitude into high fashion.
* The Monochromatic Palette: While there were occasional splashes of color, the dominant hues were black, white, and various shades of gray. This restrained palette further emphasized the collection's minimalist approach and reinforced the overall sense of cool detachment.
* The Androgynous Vibe: The collection blurred the lines between masculine and feminine styles. Many of the garments could have been worn by either gender, reflecting a growing trend towards gender fluidity in fashion. This androgynous aesthetic added another layer of complexity and subversion to the collection.
* The Emphasis on Accessories: Slimane understood the power of accessories to complete a look. The collection featured a range of statement pieces, including sharp-pointed heeled boots, delicate jewelry, and iconic Saint Laurent handbags, which became instant collector's items. These accessories were crucial in solidifying the collection's overall aesthetic.
Runway Looks: Iconic Moments and Lasting Impact
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